Basic Setup: Check the following
Forks sag 18-22 mm for dry track, 23-27mm for rain.
Shock sag 8-10mm for dry track, 10-14mm for rain.
Check chain alignment. If not correct, bike will crab walk and sprocket wear will be increased.
Proper tire balance and pressure, starting with 30psi front and 32psi rear (both dry and wet).
Steering head bearings and torque specifications - if too loose, there will be head shake at high speeds.
Front-end alignment. Check wheel alignment with triple clamps. If out of alignment, fork geometry will be incorrect and steering will suffer.
Crash damage, check for proper frame geometry.
Stock Suspension Tuning Limitations
Manufacturers plan on designing a bike that works moderately well for a large section of riders and usages. To accomplish this as economically as possible, they use valving with very small venturis. These are then matched to a very basic shim stack which creates a damping curve for the given suspension component. At slower speeds this design can work moderately well, but at higher speeds, when the suspension must react more quickly, the suspension will not flow enough oil, and will experience hydraulic lock. With hydraulic lock, the fork and/or shock cannot dampen correctly and handling suffers. The solution is to re-valve the active components to gain a proper damping curve. It does not matter what components you have, (Ohlins, Fox, Kayaba, Showa) matching them to your intended use and weight will vastly improve their action. Furthermore, if you can achieve the damping curve that is needed, it does not matter what brand name is on the component. Often with stock components, when you turn the adjusters full in or out, you do not notice a difference. In part, this is due to the fact that the manufacturer has put the damping curve in an area outside of your ideal range. Also, because the valves have such small venturis, the adjuster change makes very little difference. After re-valving, the adjusters will be brought into play, and when you make an adjustment, you will be able to notice that it affects the way the way the fork or shock performs.
Another problem with stock suspension is the springs that are used. Often they are progressive, increasing the spring rate with increased compression distance. This means that the valving is correct for only one part of the spring's travel, all other is compromise. If the factory does install a straight-rate spring, it is rarely the correct rate for the weight of the rider with gear. The solution is to install a straight-rate spring that matches the valving for the combined weight of the bike, rider and gear to the type of riding intended.
? Always make small adjustments, more is not always better.
? Always keep notes of what you have done.
? Suspension tuning is an art - be patient