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kcmc

Joined:

Jan 08

Posts: 7195

kcmc says:

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kcmc

Joined:

Jan 08

Posts: 7195

kcmc says:

PRO BOLT

http://www.tastynuts.com/site/Pro_Bolt_2008_Brochure.pdf

ROAD MOTOR CYCLE AND SIDECAR ENTHUSIASTS INFO

http://www.sidecar.com/Files/German%20SC%20HAK%20English%20.pdf

MOTION  PRO TOOLS AND PARTS

 

Apprenthttp://www.birdman.net.au/PDF/Birdman%20Catalogue%20-%20Motion%20Pro.pdficeship and Industry Training

Motorcycle Mechanic

http://www.tradesecrets.gov.ab.ca/trades/pdf/trade_course_outlines/049_outline.pdf

H-hyperpro suspension products

http://www.powerlinks.co.uk/Hyperpro2006.pdf

 

 

 

 

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Dabbsy

Joined:

Aug 02

Posts: 489

Dabbsy says:

useful info

to feed your brain while you're absorbing all that fantastically useful information. :smile Thanks KC, I'll certainly be taking a look around those sites.

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kcmc

Joined:

Jan 08

Posts: 7195

kcmc says:

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kcmc

Joined:

Jan 08

Posts: 7195

kcmc says:

TCI & CDI Electronic Ignition / Stators & Charging Systems

http://www.jetav8r.com/Vision/IgnitionFaq.pdf

TSUBAKI  CAM  CHAIN

 http://www.jml.dk/JML/grafik/sider/pdf/Tsubaki%20MC%20Timing%20Chain%20Applications.pdf

Megacycle cams   Replacement camshafts

http://www.megacyclecams.com/catalog/catalog.pdf

K&N air filters

http://www.dynojet.co.uk/filters/pdf/catalogue2008.pdf

EBC BRAKE PADS

http://www.keis.jp/EBC/bike/pdf/EBC2.pdf

AFAM  sprocket and application list

http://www.grandysduo.com.pl/afamkatalog.pdf

BREMBO  PADS

http://www.carpimoto.it/Images/Products/pdf/pads_07BB01-07HD16.pdf

GOLDFREN PADS

 http://www.goldfren.cz/_download_catalogs/_catalog_pads.pdf

OLD HONDA COMMON SERVICE TOOLS 1979

http://www.honda4fun.com/man_officina/pdf_manuali/hctm/hctm.pdf

Venom Exhausts and sports undertail exhausts kits and slash cuts for customs Motad down pipes.

http://www.on2wheels.com/08_exhausts.pdf

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kcmc

Joined:

Jan 08

Posts: 7195

kcmc says:

Motorcycle Suspension Setup: Getting to Grips with a Black Art

Suspension Set-up: The basics

Whether you are a road rider or a racer correct suspension setup is the key to fast smooth riding and consistent lap times. To get the best out of your bike it needs to be set up for the conditions in which you will be riding. It is considerably easier to set the bike up for the Track as you know what conditions will be like for the next hour or so and thus you can dial in the optimum settings for the that particular situation.

To what extent you change your suspension settings will depend on whether your bike will also have to cope with riding on the road. Unlike Roads Tracks are generally smooth and grippy. So if you are only going to use the bike on the track you have the luxury of fitting harder springs and modifying the fork and shock internals. If you ride on the road as well as the track you will probably want to keep a certain comfort level and concentrate on just optimizing the current equipment

With incorrect suspension setup, tire wear is increased and handling suffers, which in turn can result in rider fatigue. Lap times can be dramatically slower and in extreme cases safety can be compromised. Hopefully the following guide will help you dial in your suspension for faster and safer riding both on and off the track.

Firstly you will need to check the Fork and Shock sag: this is the amount the forks and rear shock settle under load. To measure it do the following: push down on the forks a number of times to settle them, then mark the stanchion with a felt pen or put a cable tie where the dust seal is sitting. Next ask some for help to lift on the bars so the front wheel is just off the ground and measure the amount the forks have traveled down. This is the static sag (or unladen sag), This can be changed by adjusting the spring preload (more preload = less sag). Repeat the same process for the rear, this time measuring the distance from the wheel spindle to a fixed point on the tail. Now you are ready to begin setting up your suspension. The key is to do it a little at a time and make notes as you go. For road riding start with the wet track settings and work from there.:tongue:

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kcmc

Joined:

Jan 08

Posts: 7195

kcmc says:

Basic Setup: Check the following

Forks sag 18-22 mm for dry track, 23-27mm for rain.

Shock sag 8-10mm for dry track, 10-14mm for rain.

Check chain alignment. If not correct, bike will crab walk and sprocket wear will be increased.

Proper tire balance and pressure, starting with 30psi front and 32psi rear (both dry and wet).

Steering head bearings and torque specifications - if too loose, there will be head shake at high speeds.

Front-end alignment. Check wheel alignment with triple clamps. If out of alignment, fork geometry will be incorrect and steering will suffer.

Crash damage, check for proper frame geometry.

Stock Suspension Tuning Limitations

Manufacturers plan on designing a bike that works moderately well for a large section of riders and usages. To accomplish this as economically as possible, they use valving with very small venturis. These are then matched to a very basic shim stack which creates a damping curve for the given suspension component. At slower speeds this design can work moderately well, but at higher speeds, when the suspension must react more quickly, the suspension will not flow enough oil, and will experience hydraulic lock. With hydraulic lock, the fork and/or shock cannot dampen correctly and handling suffers. The solution is to re-valve the active components to gain a proper damping curve. It does not matter what components you have, (Ohlins, Fox, Kayaba, Showa) matching them to your intended use and weight will vastly improve their action. Furthermore, if you can achieve the damping curve that is needed, it does not matter what brand name is on the component. Often with stock components, when you turn the adjusters full in or out, you do not notice a difference. In part, this is due to the fact that the manufacturer has put the damping curve in an area outside of your ideal range. Also, because the valves have such small venturis, the adjuster change makes very little difference. After re-valving, the adjusters will be brought into play, and when you make an adjustment, you will be able to notice that it affects the way the way the fork or shock performs.

Another problem with stock suspension is the springs that are used. Often they are progressive, increasing the spring rate with increased compression distance. This means that the valving is correct for only one part of the spring's travel, all other is compromise. If the factory does install a straight-rate spring, it is rarely the correct rate for the weight of the rider with gear. The solution is to install a straight-rate spring that matches the valving for the combined weight of the bike, rider and gear to the type of riding intended.

Remember!

? Always make small adjustments, more is not always better.

? Always keep notes of what you have done.

? Suspension tuning is an art - be patient

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kcmc

Joined:

Jan 08

Posts: 7195

kcmc says:

Guzzi Practical Suspension Setup Tricks for Road Bikes: Ride Height /Damping

 If you ride a newer Guzzi, you may be lucky enough to have some adjustment in your forks: possibly compression damping and rebound damping. How the heck are you supposed to set these up, though? More damping is always better, right? Wrong. I’m not going to go into re-valving forks or anything that design-specific. Instead, this is a discussion about theoretical predictions for a good suspension setup.

    First of all, you need to set your ride height (pre-load) on your forks/shocks. The rule of thumb is that you want 2/3 of your total suspension travel available to you in compression in both the front and rear with your full weight on the bike. This will limit the suspension bottoming out, which it definitely was not designed to do. How do you measure ride height? Zip ties. Wrap one around a front fork tube. Now sit on the bike. Don’t bounce. You want to use the zip ties to measure the static deflection of the fork slider with your full weight on the bike. Now get off the bike, and have an assistant pull up on the front-end so that you can measure the full travel of the suspension. The fork slider should have traveled only 1/3 of the way up the fork tube with your full weight on the bike. If it didn’t, and you’re lucky enough to have a pre-load adjustment on your forks (as I do on my Lemans IV’s GSXR front-end), you just crank the adjustment nut up or down to set the pre-load. If, like on most Guzzis, you do not have the adjuster, you need to pop the tops off of your forks and add/subtract fork spring spacers to adjust the pre-load.  You can make hollow spacers of the same diameter as your fork springs out of round aluminum stock.

    Next, you need to set the rear ride height, using the pre-load adjustment on your shocks. Again, you want ~ 2/3 of the suspension travel available to you with your full weight on the bike. This is usually an easy adjustment, as most shock manufacturers include a pre-load adjuster on their shocks.

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