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johns0n

Joined:

Mar 10

Posts: 31

johns0n says:

Anyone for suggestions?

Anyone got any suggests too get this sodding crank case off my Aprilia RS125?

Bolts are practically welded on! and WD40 doesn't seem to be doing the trick.

Battered the clutch :upset:

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  • Posted 5 years ago (01 April 2010 16:16)

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davejp84

Joined:

Feb 10

Posts: 151

davejp84 says:

how about,

assuming you have the space available and can access the bolts without causing damage, using a pipe wrench, plenty of grip but will probably need new bolts.


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triumphrider600

Joined:

Feb 09

Posts: 550

try soaking

with diesel instead of WD. You could also try a little localised heat from a small blow torch, this often cracks the threads loose due to diff expansion rates BUT be careful not to get too hot as your bolts and cases are soft. Soaking after heating usually works for me. You could try a little impact driver as well in case the threads have been treated with a loctite material. I use an electric one that looks like a cordless drill and is similar to the airline ones. This is perfect for bike bolts as air driven ones are too strong. You should be able to hire one.

Good luck, and well done for keeping going on this one.

Tom

[This Reply has been modified by the Author]

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jaffa90

Joined:

Mar 09

Posts: 8816

jaffa90 says:

bolts

I cannot see any replies,it sounds like a heat treetment job or a shock treetment one to break any seals,sounds like the usual steel bolts in a alloy thread.:shock:

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TreburleyTuono

Joined:

Feb 10

Posts: 20

bolts

i always tighten them first, it seems to work..

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johns0n

Joined:

Mar 10

Posts: 31

johns0n says:

I...

Shall give these idea's a go,

thanks guys.

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SlowLearner

Joined:

Feb 10

Posts: 1953

SlowLearner says:

Sticking bolts

Hello Johns0n,


This isn't a 5-minute solution, but you could do a lot worse than liberally apply Plus-Gas all around the bolt or screw, and leave it to soak in for at least a day.  Reapply a few drops every few hours for several days would be better still.

This isn't a quick solution, and hopefully you can still ride it in the meantime.  But Plus-Gas has always freed the most rusted on bolt/screw for me in the end.

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calisi72612

Joined:

Oct 12

Posts: 14

calisi72612 says:

.

can anyone tell me where to get advice on how to change the complete crank case/driveshaft at the back of front sprocket/ infront of rear shock/back wheel? as mines got a crack in where seems somethings gone wrong and been forced up out of the casing but the bike still starts? so assuming its nothing really important gone wrong? any help would be appreciated newbie to stripping down a engine lol

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fogie

Joined:

Jan 04

Posts: 806

fogie says:

broken crankcase?

Crankcase broken from the inside, BUT, nothing wrong


for fucks sake....................

read the fucking manual, and think about what you've just wrote.

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calisi72612

Joined:

Oct 12

Posts: 14

calisi72612 says:

.

nothing majorly wrong if it was still running? i havent touched a 2stroke engine bar the clutch cable or something daft so aint a expert far from it the engine case where im guessing the crank is or drive shaft is has cracked/snapped in a place was wondering if its weldable or a strip engine down and replace the casings job? aint got round to buying the manual yet but will before any work done to it just wanted know roughly what kind of money im looking at to get it done if it can be done or need a new engine/ complete bottom end

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fogie

Joined:

Jan 04

Posts: 806

fogie says:

bit harsh...

Must apologise for the rant....  sorry buddy.

Sounds like something has broken in the gearbox, and almost been forced out through the cases. Will need a complete strip, to find out what has gone wrong, and depending on the mileage, etc. either repair, or a complete rebuild.... either way EXPENSIVE. A used engine (risky) is the cheapest/quickest way around it.

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