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banditman2010

Joined:

Jan 11

Posts: 210

falk seals

i have just bought a bandit but, the falk seal are gone paper had been put in to hide this fact enyway are they easy to change or lots of fiddling about:huh:

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  • Posted 2 years ago (04 June 2012 01:44)

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kcmc

Joined:

Jan 08

Posts: 6561

kcmc says:

Bandit??

Hi banditman2010

You don't say what model or year Bandit?(600,1200,650,1250?)

It really all depends on your skill level,have you replaced fork seal before?if you have then there is no difference to what you have done before,if not you could find it a bit tricky,if you need any more info give more details so your question can be answered.Good Luck

KCMC:tongue: 

[This Reply has been modified by the Author]

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banditman2010

Joined:

Jan 11

Posts: 210

sorrie guys

its a bandit 600 1997 on a r reg its naked, the seat fairing has n600 on the sides but to be honest never heard of a n600, its a gxs-f although when i got my insurance quotes the reg came back as a s not an f and the s is a fully faired and this is certainly not enyway hope that is enough info, people say to me that a bike engine ect is the smaller version of a car engine, ive worked on cars most of my life but bikes seem to make me reluctant to work on in case i break them lol. falks i have not worked on no :winkie:

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kcmc

Joined:

Jan 08

Posts: 6561

kcmc says:

Suzuki GSF 600 Bandit 1997

Hi again Banditman2010

OK if your doing it yourself at home you will need a couple of things you need to hand before you start.First is access to a windy gun(air impact wrench) to remove the the allen bolt holding the damper cylinder in place.There is a special Suzuki tool for this.Also a piece of tube the size of the fork oil seal to drive it home,you can use the old seal over the top of the new seal and drive it home this way but it quite difficult this way.So first thing i think would be to put the bike on the main stand and chock the front of the engine so the front wheel is off the floor.Then slacken the two top fork cap nuts(it make it easier to do it now while still bolted in the clamps) unbolt the calipers,unbolt the front wheel and remove it.Do one leg at a time,remove the front guard and any bolts screws holding one of the brake lines on.slacken the top and bottom pinch bolts on the yokes(triple clamps)and slide the fork out of the clamps.With a thin blade flat screw driver remove the fork stanchion protector and then prise the dust seal up and remove,under the dust seal there is a wire c/clip again with the small driver lip under this and lift it out.Messy bit : ) with a windy gun and an appropriate long allen key(best to have this in a vice with some soft grips or some soft wood to prevent damage to the stanchion)and a bucket or bowl to collect the fork oil when you remove this bolt. 

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kcmc

Joined:

Jan 08

Posts: 6561

kcmc says:

Forks

You can use a allen key tool to undo these by hand,but nine times out of ten the  whole think will turn,this is when you need the Suzuki special tool to hole it from the inside of the damper tube.So undo the allen bolt and remove,it will have a copper sealing washer which you can renew or anneal,holding the fork in the vice allow the fork oil to drain into the bucket or bowl,unscrew the top cap nut and remove the spacer,push the leg up and remove the fork spring(lay out on a cloth).With most of the oil removed remove from the vice and,using the two halves(fork leg-stanchion) like a reverse hammer slide apart until the seal and the two parts are separated.Remove the damper tube and rebound spring and aluminium cap anti bottom out devise,examine the O ring,if you think it worn replace on rebuild,also the fork spring could well be past there sell by date(1997) so could be worth replacing then. Clean everything before rebuilding,with everything clean slide the damper tube and rebound spring and cap back down the stanchion tube,use the main spring and spacer with the cap loosely fitted if a bit tight with new seal if fitted,to hold everything in place.    

 

[This Reply has been modified by the Author]

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kcmc

Joined:

Jan 08

Posts: 6561

kcmc says:

Forks

now slide the stanchion back inside the leg,with a new copper sealing washer bolt the fork leg to the stanchion,Tighten to 21lb-ft small dot of thread lock either with the windy gun set at this or a torque wrench,you will find the fork bush will need refitting(check it for wear,if worn replace)slide it down to the recess in the fork leg put the washer over the top and tap the top of the wash with a screw drive until the bush seats in the recess,now with a small amount of rubber grease(some seals come with a bit)smeared on the seal slide over the stanchion and down to the fork leg.Push into place,then slide the old seal over the top(prevents damaging new seal) either with a seal slider tool or a long tube which will fit over the top and longer than the stanchion,or with a hammer(which you will need to keep hard against the stanchion sliding up and down to prevent damage to the chroming)refit the new oil seal,remove the old seal to see if the new seal has been driven deep enough to refit the c/clip.If it is refit the c/clip and the dust seal and the protect,undo the top fork cap and refill the leg with oil,521ml of 10w both legs,refit cap and push on the stanchion to make sure its all working OK and damping properly,refit back in the yokes and do the same to the other  fork.Hope this helps Good Luck

KCMC:tongue: 

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