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oscarthegrouch

Joined:

Oct 05

Posts: 2300

kcmc

help strange electrical problem you still up ?

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  • Posted 351 days ago (07 June 2012 05:20)

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kcmc

Joined:

Jan 08

Posts: 5289

kcmc says:

Good

news to hear you have fixed the problem,i hand an idea it was that relay,that's why i asked if it was new or second hand,as i said it has the four way diode in it and if its over loaded it can often cause a problem.But as you may or may not know but on here if i would have said i think its that relay and you had already replaced it,i often get people jumping down my throat,so that's why i said did you replace it with a new one or second hand if its sound it shouldn't be a problem.Great news  good luck and have fun

KCMC:tongue:   

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oscarthegrouch

Joined:

Oct 05

Posts: 2300

second hand

mate got it off a sixteen thousand mile fzr which had been front ended ...... wish i hadn't bought the cdi unit now but as i had already tried one relay i just assumed it must have been the cdi ....really good breakers up in durham called roosters very nice bloke and he can't do enough to help you

reccomend them to all .....also tokk the starter relay to bits and cleaned all the connectors looked like it had been sat in seawater..... cheers dude

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oscarthegrouch

Joined:

Oct 05

Posts: 2300

Now got

another gripe with the bike ....i have tried and tried to balance the carbs on this bike and it just about runs even on a closed throttle but not perfect ....somebody told me years ag that it was down to the sliders in the carbs wearing ...what do you think .....runs lovely on open throttle

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kcmc

Joined:

Jan 08

Posts: 5289

kcmc says:

Yes

your probably right about the carbs wearing,but what i find is that not so much the slides(these can wear especially if its been run for long periods with no air filter or a sports filter not lightly oiled)but more the slide needles and the main nozzles(emulsion tubes) which they run in.If these wear to a point were they will not seal(they go unevenly oval or egg shaped) you will usual find you can not get an even tick over,and as it gets worse you may find the bike will only idle at a to higher tick over and when brought down to normal will just fade until it stops(running much to rich at idle).(make sure the cylinder compressions are all the same or very close,and the valve clearances are within spec)Post a picture of your bike i would like to see it:smile,you probably already know but the front brake system can be up graded on your model by fitting R6 blue calipers(bolt straight on) and master cylinder,the master cylinder will also give you a more adjustable lever.Nickel plated emulsion tubes are the way to go:smile.

KC:tongue:

 

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kcmc

Joined:

Jan 08

Posts: 5289

kcmc says:

......................................................

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oscarthegrouch

Joined:

Oct 05

Posts: 2300

bike

Pictures attached kcmc yes you are right about the tickover lumpy as feck when cold just have to leave the choke on for a minute though and the only way to get it to tick over evenly is to set the tickover to 1400- 1500 rpm lower than that the needle just bounces up and down a little which rather annoys me .....bike has dynojet needles and jets which were fitted before i got it about eight years ago

that bike i got the relay off though still had engine and carbs in it .... and only had 16 000 miles on it where mine has 41 500 miles on ....what da ya reckon stick with my carbs and replace needles and jets or ....buy the carbs from breakers .... plus at the minute the bike is running a little leaner than i would normally expect ....not white plugs but very clean but  not tan

Attached images:

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kcmc

Joined:

Jan 08

Posts: 5289

kcmc says:

Nice

clean looking bike,:smileit is possible that someone has dropped the slide needles down a notch or removed the small white nylon spacer that should be under each needle in an attempt to solve the idle problem(i have seen this before,unfortunately it doesn't work)think if you can put up with it until the winter comes around(don't know how bad it is?)then take a look at the needles and tubes,it is very commen and as i already said the replacements should be stainless steel needles if you can get them and nickel coated tubes.I would stick with the carbs you have,unless these other carbs are very very cheap and you want them for spares? .You could check the needle settings and if there wrong try lifting them,this will make the mixture better but could cause the idle to be unusable.Good Luck

KCMC:tongue:

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oscarthegrouch

Joined:

Oct 05

Posts: 2300

Thanks man not bad for a bike

That lives in the garden eh and it's not bad i just would like it to idle spot on and the needle bounces a little too much for my liking ..... when the tickover is close to 1500 it idles smooth if a little loud sounds like an airoplane lol. to my memory it has steel washers under the needles

[This Reply has been modified by the Author]

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oscarthegrouch

Joined:

Oct 05

Posts: 2300

kcmc

Found it ain't a big rush as i've had my licence  ahem...confiscated but any help would be appreciated :wink: 

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kcmc

Joined:

Jan 08

Posts: 5289

kcmc says:

Take a look

at these,think there state side,but in this economic climate its worth checking out.

http://www.factorypro.com/products/jets,%20Mikuni,%20buy.htm#Mikuni_emulsion_tubes_/_needle_jets

How long is the enforced ban?:shock:you been a bit of a naughty boy then:lol:

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