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teamwindsor

Joined:

Mar 11

Posts: 573

teamwindsor says:

Motorcycle painting

The bike is starting to look a little tatty with fairing scratches from general wear and tear (13 years old!). I have decided to make a bit of a project of it, particularly as the weather is so bad and I now am working so close to home it is not needed for commuting for another 6 months.

In addition to new exhaust, shocks, engine protectors, and handle bars I have decided to give it a lick of paint.

I have managed to find an ebay rear cowl that I will try and refurbish before I paint the tank etc in case it all goes bad. My first mistake has been to use paint stripper- it melts the plastic! So this is going to have to be repaired before I get going.

I was wondering if anyone had experience of DIY painting and if so what types of paint to use. The choice is a little bemusing! Acrylic (water of petroleum based) or enamel and then the choice of clear coat. I am going to use a primer and heard there are primers that are self etching so am going to have a look into these. I want the paint to obviously be petrol resistant as I am prone to the odd splash back at the pump. My thought is of matt black maybe with a few stripes thrown in for good measure. I know it will not be as good as a professional job, but want to give it a try, hopefully learn a little and it will keep me out of mischief!

Any advice with paint/primer/lacquer combos would be greatly appreciated!

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  • Posted 2 years ago (07 September 2012 12:51)

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SaraChang

Joined:

Aug 12

Posts: 32

SaraChang says:

Motorcycle painting

Thanks for sharing Motorcycle painting information. When i do that i go threw the same steps as i would if i was sprayig it with outomotiv paint,so just feather it out to as good as you want it.use primer or sealer with a light dust coat,prep the surface with rubbing alchohol,to save money,or soap and water and spray it to your satisfaction thats what i do and everybody says it looks good.

Best Regards,
Sara

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MarcusMarsh

Joined:

Aug 09

Posts: 2699

MarcusMarsh says:

Refurbishment

I did some refurb work on the VFR last year and, speaking from experience, I would say be aware that the project is likely to become a little bigger and more costly than you first imagined.  Although it is still worthwhile and resonably economical if doing the work yourself.  Its things like the extra fitting or two and bolts etc that you replace as you go that add a bit to the cost.  But then this kind of thing is often not about the economics - it's about taking care of the bikes we love. 

As far as painting goes I have a couple of mates in the trade and, according to them, its all about the preparation.  If the prep is not right then the finished job will always look poo.  If you are talking etching primer then I assume that you are taking it back to the metal - that's a lot of work to start with.  I have seen guys do amazing things with rattle-cans but it might be worth your while stripping the parts and then taking them to a local body shop for painting.  You'll get a decent finish and they'll do it for a modest cost.                

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JAWAPAWA

Joined:

Sep 10

Posts: 2240

JAWAPAWA says:

reet

ronseal and hammerite/pot black lurvly

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teamwindsor

Joined:

Mar 11

Posts: 573

teamwindsor says:

tail

My plan was to initially do the tail cowling and see how I get on. I bought a cheap one as a bit of a test. If it looks good the plan is to strip the tank back to the metal then use the etching primer and go from there.

I have looked into the professional job but the best quote I have had so far is £200 assuming I do all the prep work which from what you are saying and I have read is the hard time consuming part. That price was for a single colour which to me seems a bit steep. Plus I want to give it a go!

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Blader2005

Joined:

Dec 08

Posts: 1540

Blader2005 says:

having a dad...

who was a panel beater and sprayer for 30+yrs.. he always said.. "spend the time on the prep!!!! if this is bang-on, then the paint will lay a lot better and cut up nice"..

if the paint on the tank is good and still bonded to the metal, (ie, not flaked or chipped) then there is no real reason to go back to bare metal.. flat the paint back till its 'flat' ie lost its shine, and it is good enough to give the primer a good bonding surface... then use GOOD QUALITY paint... tho a little more pricey, id suggest getting tins mixed by an autofactors shop..

for the plastics, youll need a primer that has a flex capability (as plastics flex) that should stop the paint cracking..

youll also want plenty of wet n dry.. (400ish grit) and some clear lacquer.. :)

 

it was a bit smaller than you are planning, but i did my headlight cover all myself with aerosols..

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teamwindsor

Joined:

Mar 11

Posts: 573

teamwindsor says:

start

Got things underway and have to admit it is slow progress. Most of the job is repairing the damaged caused by the paint stripper and to be honest it is fairly extensive with bubbling of the plastic. (pic1)

After about an hour of sanding with 240grit the worst was removed(one side only) but it is by no means smooth so will have to revisit the area when I am feeling more motivated. For a bit of a change I decided to fill in some of the holes and deep grooves, presumably previous crash damage. Using bumper repair putty the worst has been filled and then cut off with a razor blade. This will also need some sanding down when fully cured. :wacko:

All in all it is a bit of a mess with a long way to go! Will try and stick at it though and see what happens.

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smidget

Joined:

Nov 07

Posts: 2411

smidget says:

As

has been said the most important part of any paint job, be it vehicle or home decorating, it is the preparation that will give you a good finish.

You will need various grit rates of paper and not just wet and dry. judging by the roughness of your tail piece I would suggest something like an aluminium oxide low clog or production paper (240 grit) to start with and where possible use a rubbing block to ensure a flat finish (a block of wood will do).

Etching primers are usually used on materials such as aluminium.

For work on plastics I usually start with a high build spray putty, allow 24 hours to harden, then flat back. Then use a grey spray high build primer allow to harden, most will go off within the hour, then flat back with 360 Wet and Dry. The secret here is to use a couple of drops of washing up liquid in the water and keep the work piece wet at all times so that you don't 'tear' the primer.

Rinse off with clean water dry off and then check for pin holes. If need be reprime and continue the procees until you have the finish you expect the colour coat to be like i.e. super smooth.

It is not always required to remove all the old paint as there are such products called 'sealer primers' available which whilst priming they seal off all old paints to prevent a reaction with the new paints.

As most paint systems are now Acrlic (water based) it would be best to use  this system for your base (colour) coat.

All clear coatings should be used with the greatest of respect as they will effect you lungs, and an air fed spray mask is the least you should use for your own safety. It should be applied in a well ventilated room with a filtered extractor system. (I do mine in an old tent I have but use the air fed mask).

If you have to do the finish coat in your garage then cover (dust sheet) as much as you can because the stuff goes everywhere.  

 

 

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smidget

Joined:

Nov 07

Posts: 2411

smidget says:

More pics

Latest version of my bike, all pictures are of the same bike.

The main paint and laquer are by (shock horror) Halfords which is now Acrylic the mural is air brushed using acrylic artist paints.

You could use cellulose based paint but tends to mark up easier.

Hope some of this helps you out. 

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teamwindsor

Joined:

Mar 11

Posts: 573

teamwindsor says:

smidget

Thanks for that smidget, very informative.

Yeah the 240 grit was just a start and I plan to go through the wet and dry grades. I have some harsher aluminium paper but it is 80 (prob a bit extreme even for the current state).

Nice job by the way!

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