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Goulders

Joined:

Dec 12

Posts: 16

Goulders says:

Bandit gear changes

I've got a 2008 gsf650 bandit with only 16k on the clock. Just looking for some advice with regard to gear changes. When changing from 1st to 2nd and to a lesser extent 2nd to 3rd there is good clunk as the gear engages. If I do a WOT take off the clunk is far worse.  Is this just the style of gearbox or is there a better way to change gears. Only been riding for 6 months so it may just be me. 

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  • Posted 2 years ago (24 February 2013 15:53)

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Goulders

Joined:

Dec 12

Posts: 16

Goulders says:

More practice required!!!!

I have checked the condition of the chain and it looks fine, just a bit loose. 

The bike does jolt forward when engaging 1st whether cold or warm. 
I don't do many WOT starts, just occasionally. Normally I just give it a bit of beans. 
The clutch engages about 1/2 way out, has good bite. and doesn't slip. Just checked the oil and it seems a little low 

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jaffa90

Joined:

Mar 09

Posts: 8823

jaffa90 says:

jolt

is permissible when cold but NOT when hot,

you`ve got clutch drag,

clutch bite 1/2 way out is ok,

you could have a too fast tickover,

too much oil in the engine,

or the wrong type of oil in the engine.

Chain tension should be minimum 1" or 25mm slack in the middle of the bottom run (bike not on the centre stand). 

 

 

 

[This Reply has been modified by the Author]

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Goulders

Joined:

Dec 12

Posts: 16

Goulders says:

Jolt

It may sound like a daft question but how would I know if I have clutch drag?  The bike doesn't move if stationary and in first.   This is the second bandit I have had (crashed first one 6 days after passing test!!!!). Same spec as the first and the tickover is the same so I  happy that is ok. 

Got done Putaline oil and filter from suzuki so gonna do that in the morning. 
Whst is the maximum the chain should move to?  Currently it moves to about 2" in the centre but that is on 2 wheels. 

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jaffa90

Joined:

Mar 09

Posts: 8823

jaffa90 says:

Drag

Clutch drag is when the bike moves forwards when selecting 1st gear with engine warmed up.Worse case is when the engine stalls when selecting 1st from cold.

Chain tension should be checked with a person on the bike with both feet up (chock side stand to near vertical)and checked in a few places (moving bike forwards a little at a time).

After doing this setting note the tension without a person on the bike to see if any difference and also again on the centre stand.This is so you can set the tension at any of the 3 stages.

Chain slack as said,25mm (min) 35mm (max). USING YOUR LITTLE FINGER.

Oil change,hold the clutch lever in (string) to relax the clutch plates only when draining warm to hot oil.   

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Goulders

Joined:

Dec 12

Posts: 16

Goulders says:

Chain adjustment

Had a look in the manual and it says to adjust the chain when the bike is on the SIDE stand? Would that not make it difficult to adjust the wheel? 

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jaffa90

Joined:

Mar 09

Posts: 8823

jaffa90 says:

adjust

the chain on the centre stand and recheck as my last post.

You may have 25mm with rider on also 30mm with rider off and also 35mm on the centre stand at the same time.

Trail bikes can have 25mm chain slack with rider off but will tighten up and break with rider on.

 

 

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Goulders

Joined:

Dec 12

Posts: 16

Goulders says:

Cheers

Chain adjusted and oil changed. Gear changes are much smoother. Thanks for all your assistance. 

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philehidiot

Joined:

Feb 09

Posts: 4697

philehidiot says:

Do

bear in mind that chain adjustment is basic maintenance. Especially if you make a habit of giving it the beans - I'm not saying there's anything wrong with thrashing it if that's how you like to ride but it will put more stress on components and the chain is one of them - it will require adjusting more frequently. Not so much the oil change as that's usually a garage service thing. I have attended to an idiot who let his chain fall off. He was very lucky it didn't wrap around his ankle and take his foot off or wrap around the rear wheel and send him off. You don't need to be going fast to decapitate yourself on a lamp post (30mph will do it). He had all the required tools at home but never used them and as a result could have died. Make sure your bike is well looked after and you'll be the limiting factor on the road. That means checking oil, tyre pressures and condition, chain and electrics regularly, especially if you're going to ride fast as your bike needs to be in good condition in order that it will react properly and predictably when being pushed.


Oh and the garage that said your chain looked fine? Don't trust them if they can't tell a saggy chain on sight.

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