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MCN  says:

Do you run a new bike in according to the manufacturer's guidelines?

Whether or not a bike should be run in is one of the perennial questions of biking, with advice from different people telling you different things. Everything from following the guidelines to the letter, to riding it normally, to ragging it straight off are all commonplace. So, how do you do it?  

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  • Posted 2 years ago (01 May 2013 10:43)

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Sep 07

Posts: 2860

James600zx says:

Never had a new one.

The Mototune method might be right but amongst all those words and bold claims there is little evidence, just some race bike pistons of unknown history. Where's the science bit?

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Nov 11

Posts: 32

souroush says:

well said - CBR11X

I wish I knew before going easy on it. Next time maybe although by the looks of it, there will be nothing worth buying new on the market soon . Thanks for the advise mate .

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May 09

Posts: 269

JustBe says:


I find if you get a new bike that you learn bad habits that are hard to let down when running in a new engine, especially if you're a learner. I'd much rather buy a second hand bike that is run in so I can just ride it from the get go. Otherwise I end up short shifting and not letting go of it.

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May 08

Posts: 221

SHIVA_ says:

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Feb 05

Posts: 223

Bob_1 says:


Usually the manufacturer's guidelines make no mention of short journeys which are probably the worst thing for any engine. I try to do a few longish runs to get the engine temperature up but keep to a light throttle. Not over-revving is a fairly obvious thing to avoid but so is lugging the engine at low revs. Anyway, a few long runs, treat it gently but progressively use more revs and throttle then change the oil and thoroughly check the bike over and it's good to go. 

Modern engines are made to very close tolerances, not like the engines of old which did need bedding in. The "running in" these days is probably achieved in the first few miles and is as much to ensure the bike's screwed together properly and is safe to ride as anything else.

[This Reply has been modified by the Author]

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Oct 09

Posts: 6

vivster says:

Smaller bikes - impossible

At least with bigger bikes you have the relative choice as to whether to run the engine in or not.

When I bought my first Kawasaki, a Ninja 250R the manufacturer recommended keeping the revs below 4k (the same recommendation they give for ALL their bikes!). This was barely possibly on regular A and B roads but given that I had to ride the back on the M4 to get it back home, once I was on the motorway this was simply impossible.

And I found the rev counter jumping up to the 6-7k range as the little thing HAD to rev higher to simply keep up with the traffic around it. There is no practical advice as to what to do with smaller engined bikes on motorways (or are we supposed to simply refrain from riding the vehicles on such roads altogether until after the first 1000 miles? Probably impossible!).

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Sep 10

Posts: 836

CBR11X says:

Vivster, you probably did yourself a big favour by revving it. My friend bought a new ZZR-250 and it was the same recommendation. I told him not to bother and just rev it to about 7-8K. Unfortunately for him, he's a bit of stickler for rules, and indeed kept the revs religiously under 4k. After the run in, the number 1 cylinder was 50 psi below the minimum as per the workshop manual. He had a hard time getting the bike shop to re-ring and hone the cylinders. They finally did, then he asked me if I'd run it in for him. It took me two days and I just rode it normally whilst varying the revs constantly. I don't know why the manufactrurers give such bullshit advice to their customers.

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Jan 11

Posts: 107

RageRider says:

@ CBR11X

It's just arse covering by the manufacturers I guess. I imagine that a gutless engine that's as flat as a witches tit is preferable to one that goes pop.

As you say though it's bad and unnecessary advice and doesn't really show a lot of faith in their product. Engines now in cars or bikes should be able to take a good bit of stick from the off without any significant issues in the short or long term.

If and when I get another new bike (chance is a fine thing!) I'll certainly be a bit more rev happy than the manual says or have been previously! Won't go crazy but a good bit of stick's no bad thing it seems.

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May 08

Posts: 221

SHIVA_ says:

The company instructions are just legalese

I don't know why the manufactrurers give such bullshit advice to their customers.

The instructions are there just to prevent manufacturers from damages, as in lawsuits and such. 

The worst thing you can do to an engine is to follow manufacturers break in or run in instruction, but they are there, becuase if you start racing the bike before 600 mile service, and you blow the engine and hurt or kill yourself, the OE can't be suied.  They show you the instruction and say we told you to take it way easy.

But taking it way easy, has no relation to racing and stunting with a brand new bike.  All those are extreme situations of the spectrum.  Just ride the bikes normally and don't baby them and definitely get the revs way up and don't ride in 5th and 6th for too long.  Once you have had the 600 mile service, then, you have no limit, but I wouldn't baby the engine for the first 3000 miles.  Well, that's for BMW's, they seem to be tougher, it may be lesser miles for other brands. 

A lot of guys shift at below 4K rpm and never ride at higher revs, that's a sure sign of that engine burning oil later on.


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Jan 04

Posts: 287

R6nutter6 says:

What do manufacturers do when they ride a bike off the production line????????

Answer; A FULL dyno run to check the engine is working correctly and within parameters!


Ride the thing normally, there's no need to baby it.

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