is held back in lower gears on most big Japanese bikes by ignition retard, fly-by-wire throttle programs, or ECU controlled secondary throttles, usually to avoid too frequent spin-ups, power wheelies and high-sided or looped customers.
Basically you don't get what you ask for because their conservative makers think you might not be able to handle it.
So-called TREs might give you a little more by fooling the bike's ECU that it's in a higher gear, so it allows a few more beans, but lowering the gearing WILL give definitely give more thrust than originally intended in every gear.
If you're going down the gearing route visit www.gearingcommander.com
first. Changing both may prove best. You could swap out the stock 44/16 for 43/17 to get 8% lower gearing, same axle position, same length chain, smoother running chain, and improved chain and sprocket life (see same-tooth same-link). It would mess up your speedo and ODO by 8% too though, as they're based on gearbox output shaft speed. Added to the built-in over-read the speedo would no longer be legal, but you can fix that with a SpeedoHealer.
Of course you still won't accelerate faster if you have to back off to keep the front wheel down, so lose weight and climb over the bars.
And finally, if getting it up was what you were after then a European model might be more obliging from the off, think Tuono or Speed Triple.