The Synder family tour Europe

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We decided that this year’s grand tour was going to be to the Tyrol with Mick on his R1200ST, son Jeff on his soon-to-be-delivered F800ST and Brian on the R1150GS. Sons William and Graham would be lashed to the pillions as neither has a full licence yet; next year should be a mass outing.

The itinerary, based around the amazingly welcoming Motor Bike Hotels, was a stop in Belgium on the first night, then on to Klotten for two nights, ride the Nordschleife, then on down to Mellrichstad, then Torwang and finally to Ried in Austria for two days riding the Tyrolean roads. One stop in Germany and another in France on the way home would complete the ten day, 2,200 mile tour.

Fate dealt a deadly blow to the carefully laid plans when Jeff’s new F800ST was not delivered in time for the off. At the same time, Mick’s ST was diagnosed with a shot rear shock and no stock anywhere to replace it. So much for the hairpins and the Nordschleife. Still, with Jeff on his recently de-restricted F650CS, we were all set to go.
The night before the off, the Scarver gave up the ghost, the clutch protesting at the thought of the mountains. So, with a hastily purchased R850RS joining the ST and the GS, we finally set out at lunchtime on the Saturday.

The Scariest Bit: Finding a small town blocked by a huge truck. We were about to stop when our GPS, totally unprompted, told us to turn left, took us out of the village and then routed us onto a farm track. The GS loved it, the ST hated it and the locals in the tiny hamlet at the end of the track just stared in disbelief as we emerged from the wilderness some miles later. After that, we learned how to program the SatNav correctly.

Equally scary was finding yourself staring open-mouthed at the Alpine scenery, instead of at the twisty, plunging roads ahead.

The Worst Bit: The weather was the worst imaginable for riding in full kit. Temperatures in the high 30’s meant most days were spent drinking more water than the bikes used petrol and evenings were spent in the shower fully clothed, just to get fresh and cool.

The Strangest Bit: The Motor Bike Hotels were amazing. At Mellrichstadt we were greeted by the host, before we had even unloaded the bikes, followed by a gorgeous young lady in traditional dress bearing five free cold beers across the car park to us. ‘This is the reception formality’ he announced.
With workshop facilities, free cleaning materials and safe and secure storage for the bikes, the world of touring by bike was a much better place. Throw in recommendations for riding routes by owners who are also keen bikers and you might think you are in motorcycle heaven.

And Helga, the Suzy Perry look-alike hostess at the Riederhof Motor Bike Hotel was just the icing on the cake.

The Best Bit: The highlight of the trip was leaving at 6 one morning, the mist and clouds shrouding the valleys, just to be able to ride in the cool. We did 125 miles through the best of Austrian, Swiss and Italian mountains with a stop for coffee and croissants under an impossibly tall Alp then back to the hotel in time for Breakfast. What an experience – empty roads, no police, no Gatsos and scenery to die for. Or, if you get the hairpins wrong, to die in!

Watch this space next year for another epic, but how do we outdo the Alps?

Mick Snyder

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By Mick Snyder