Honda's latest CBR is brilliant, but earlier ones are fantastic too! Here are my top used buys

Honda have revived the CBR600RR for Europe, but do you need to pay something like £11,000 to own a CBR? Of course not… The CBR has been around since 1987 when the CBR600F-H ‘jelly mould’ first introduced the world to the delights of Honda’s supersport motorcycle.

Related: Sportsbike kit buying guide

Over the next 25 years the CBR evolved but it wasn’t until the introduction of the first RR version in 2003 that it really came of age. So if you want a CBR to get your pulse racing, here’s our pick of the best used sports-focused models.

Read on for our expert guide to the best Honda CBRs over the years!


MotoGP looks and tech shake up the supersport world

Honda CBR600RR (’03-06)

Spec:

  • Power 117bhp
  • Engine capacity 599cc
  • Seat height 820mm
  • Kerb weight 197kg (kerb)

Borrowing both looks and tech from Honda’s dominant RC213V MotoGP bike, the 2003 CBR600RR was the first no-compromise, trackfocused CBR. Small, agile and with a rev-happy screamer of a motor, the RR was far removed from the CBR’s traditional do-it-all nature but it certainly nailed the sporty brief. A proper racing whippet of a bike to ride, the RR is left lacking in mid-range but if you like to thrash an engine and prioritise handling over practicality, it’s still a great bike. Sadly, the RR is also now considered a modern classic so prices are on the rise.

Honda CBR600RR used buying advice

● Check the rubber covers that allow you to reset the dash’s trips etc as they can perish.
● The RR’s engine can sip a bit of oil, especially when used hard on track. Always check the level and listen out for any worrying rumbles.
● The RR requires its valveclearance to be checked at 16,000 miles – an absolute nightmare of a job. If the bike is approaching this number, factor in around £600 to have them inspected.


2007-2012 Honda CBR600RR – £4000-£6500

All-new engine with a welcome mid-range boost as well

Honda CBR600RR (’07-12)

Spec:

  • Power 119bhp
  • Engine capacity 599cc
  • Seat height 820mm
  • Kerb weight 186kg (kerb)

The 2007-onwards CBR600RR has an all-new engine that is lighter, shorter and with a healthy dose of mid-range injected into it. This model is much less demanding to ride on the road while still retaining incredibly agile handling. Not quite an all-rounder, it is a supersport bike that you don’t feel like you need to be hammering everywhere or continually tap-dancing on the gear lever to make overtakes.

Honda CBR600RR used buying advice

● Corrosion can build up in the rear hub, causing the disc to drag which leads to overheating and eventually a warped disc.
● It is worth checking the state of the Honda’s bearings (head, wheel, swingarm) as they may well need replacing at this age.
● Give the CBR’s fairing panels a good look over as they are a bit of a pain to remove with a lot of hiddenaway fasteners.


2014-2018 Honda CBR650F – £3000-£6500

An easy-going new arrival that also gained a capacity hike

Honda CBR650F (2014-18)

Spec:

  • Power 90bhp
  • Engine capacity 649cc
  • Seat height 810mm
  • Kerb weight 211kg (kerb)

Powered by a retuned and biggercapacity version of the RR motor, the CBR650F returns the CBR to its do-it-all roots and is very much a practical commuter with a slight sporting flavour. Featuring a steel chassis and conventional forks, the CBR makes for a brilliant day-today bike that is more than happy to be enjoyed down a twisty B-road at the weekends.

Honda CBR650F used buying advice

● The CBR650F is built in Thailand and that, alongside its low price, does have an impact on the build quality. Corroded fasteners are common as is flaking engine paint.
● If the gearbox is clunky, check the chain’s tension and then the cush drive rubbers in the hub. Wear in these areas can cause problems.
● ABS is standard on the CBR but the two-piston calipers can get sticky. Get the front wheel up in the air and listen for dragging pads. Rebuild kits are about £40 a side.


2013-2018 Honda CBR600RR – £4500-£8500

New forks and updates as the CBR600RR evolves once more

Honda CBR600RR (2013-18)

Spec:

  • Power 119bhp
  • Engine capacity 599cc
  • Seat height 820mm
  • Kerb weight 186kg (kerb)

Despite a sharper new look, 12-spoke wheels, Showa’s Big Piston forks, a revised electronic steering damper, updated C-ABS and new fuel-injection maps, the 2013 Honda CBR600RR is basically the same as the previous generation RR. Is that a bad thing? Not really, the new forks give a better ride quality and the look is more contemporary but underneath it is a thoroughly tried and tested supersport bike that won’t let you down.

Honda CBR600RR used buying advice

● Have a close look at the CBR’s suspension linkages for signs of rust or a lack of grease, getting them apart can be a costly fight if they haven’t been looked after.
● The CBR never had a quickshifter as standard but a lot of fuelling modules allow an aftermarket one to be added. Be cautious about any fitted as they aren’t really designed for road use.


2000-2007 Honda CBR600F-Sport – £1500-£3800

2001-2 model is Honda’s first truly track-focused CBR600F

Honda CBR600F-Sport

Spec:

  • Power 109bhp
  • Engine capacity 599cc
  • Seat height 810mm
  • Kerb weight 200kg (kerb)

The Honda CBR600F-Sport was designed to allow Honda’s race teams to get a bit more power out of the engine and as such came with double valve springs, slightly different cams, a lighter crank and a split rider/pillion seat when compared to the stock F model. Still incredibly practical, the F-Sport is the pick of this generation of CBR. Reliable, fairly relaxed and relatively cheap, what’s not to like?

Honda CBR600F-Sport used buying advice

● All older CBR600F models suffer from cam chain tensioner issues (see page 48). A new tensioner is about £200 fitted.
● If the bike won’t start, walk away, especially if it has been dropped. The cut-out switch can cause a spike in the electrical system, leading to a fried ECU.
● The bike has Honda’s immobiliser. But if you only have one key, get another coded (around £100) as if you lose it, it requires a new ECU to turn-off the immobiliser system.